I've bought 2 delta table saws, brand new mitre saw, 8" jointer and a bunch of others.Handtools are just a no go.. Thanks for mentioning Norbert.
Next is a Maple edge test. 4 "defender" so not one of the good old models and it still way out performed the harbor freight one. If i were you id get a used Stanley no 5 (4 would be fine too but i think you can do more with a 5). If you do make simething with one if the irons, please share.
Forums were playing with this plane a year ago and Hock was even going to make a small run of irons for them. Maybe not saying much, but the tote and knob were nice. Or the guy making up names is too lazy to use another button? 5 for 10 bucks plus the cost of sandpaper to get it back up and running. I bought this plane many years back when I was woodworking in a college apartment. >quoted mathamatition on economics< And I quoted a president on wood working. Looks like I'll save a few more bucks and get a decent tool. We have created these special content collections organized to give you a deep dive into a range of topics that matter. But why not go a step further? Heres a video where I un-box and tuneup a $10 bench plane (~No 3) from Harbor Freight.
I guess if you got a quality iron in it you may be able to make it work properly, but a quality iron would cost more than the plane itself. And he used it often. Though I dont think Ill be running out for one , Matt, Northern California - Started a blog in 2016: http://tinyshopww.blogspot.com/. Its great to have around!
Mine is similar.
I think it wouldnt make a good smoother. Also id consider looking at older union and craftsman planes also.
Heck there's a brand new 8" grizzly long bed jointer on cl now for $650.
I use this a lot because it seems like its always within arms reach.
You cannot paste images directly. I think this is because its so cheap, Im not obsessive about putting it away and I dont worry about knocking it off the bench! It is a "right of passage". The equivalent of one of those T-shirts with the tux printed on it showing up at the penthouse party. Become an UNLIMITED member and get it all: searchable online archive of every issue, how-to videos, Complete Illustrated Guide to Woodworking digital series, print magazine, e-newsletter, and more. If you're interested in old tools, it sucks to live here. One third between a #3 and #4?
If i have a Stanley No. Anyway, the plane was indeed useless out of the box. If I were 'watching my (Lincoln) hours' - I'd buy LV. We are not talking about brain surgery here. For $10 it is at least as well made as a Groz or standard Anant. Plane unchanged from prior example.
5 is there any point to going after this guy? It just reminded me of that vid and I was not sure if you'd seen it. Glad you enjoy the real deal.
Even for a ham-fisted ham & egger like me, I would charge about $15/hr. I did get a kick out of the comment about this being an excellent positive pole for an electrolysis setup. Our biweekly podcast allows editors, authors, and special guests to answer your woodworking questions and connect with the online woodworking community. Cry "Havoc," and let slip the dogs of bench. The blade and bed really didnt need any out of the ordinary attention, but the screw cap had a raised casting error on the bottom side that needed to be flattened and the square leading edge needed rounding.
Pasted as rich text. For me it's just fun to play around with tools.
Start your 14-day FREE trial - and get building! "A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty.
Congrats on your find and thanks for your input! Everyone out here thinks their 20 year old Stanley #4 is a collectors item and price them accordingly. I bought the Stanley about 20 years ago and it pretty much kept me from hand tools. Best Stanley nr 4 are the pre-WW2 types. I bought one just for chits and giggles a few years ago, iron is not really very good, dulls easily and does not keep an edge.
I was thinking (a dangerous thing) - taking a lousy plane and turning it into a user - is that a good thing? Rolled up cost is now $173. By It appears to be holding its depth just fine, and the blade has not yet doubled over..:>). If the answers to those are yes, then I may have to go over to Harbor Freight and fill out my stable.
Good to know though you buy one of those cheapies and make it have way decent and use it for what you suggested. Just make sure they dont have corrugate bottoms and watch some videos from paul sellers.
This Indian #33 isnt half bad for $9.99. Upload or insert images from URL. Not that I would want to. Throughout all of this there was absolutely no chatter, though it is a bit of a bear to push with the 60-degree cutting angle.
Thanks for that.
You could turn this plane into anything you wanted, including a boat anchor ;-), 10$ impulse buy!! I have a Veritas Mk II honing guide which makes this easy.
Marty Backe,
Next the iron. As Jammersix says, results are what counts.
Not many #3 can be had for $10. Your endgrain is like your bellybutton. I wont use my good planes on ply or MDF either. My advice to a beginner would be to look elsewhere, but your call. and couldn't find it. The blade thickness is .078 - which is about the same as a standard Stanley #3 blade (usually .078 - .082).
Looking forward to the local autumn wood work show coming up here.
But when I run into a small box top or box side with stubborn grain, or an edge giving me tearout with my 45 degree planes, it will come out. Why start with a lousy plane? But that's a great idea, buy the plane for the iron. These were mighty popular for a short time back in 2009 and 2010. Plane is a comfortable #3 size smoother, very similar in size and design to a Stanley design. I put a 1/16 shim between the blade and bed this closed the mouth up to a couple hairs smaller than 1/32. Have you seen the Stumpy Nubs vid on the same plane? The reason was that on another forum about a year ago, there was a lot of interest in this model as having great "bones". I can't get past it. It'll be great for when I need to plane the edges of plywood, MDF, etc. I did it back when I was younger and it taught me a lot. Possibly Ill try a higher angle maybe 62 or so. Probably also add a slight camber to the iron. And, out of curiousity, any idea why it's called a #33? Is it OK to copy projects from the magazine? I want to say "Will Rogers", but I'm not sure that's right. Youre better off picking up a garage sale #3 or #4. I was in Harbor Freight the other day and picked up on a lark their $10 #33 Plane: Easy-to-use plane features a tempered high carbon steel cutter, making it perfect for general purpose work. The one-piece body/frog is obviously rigid. Editor's Letter: Technology and the future of woodworking. I suppose I could add a quote from Chris Rock, and it would stack up with equal validity. I got one a while back and it was totally useless to me and the worst money I ever spent. Total then was $128.00 hard dollars. THese things don't wear out.
Marty you are out of control buddy !! I too live in Southern California. The lever cap also sits about 1/4 away from the edge of the blade.
I suppose you could go even further (or is it farther)? This little thing has become my thickness planer. As it is, it sounds good in use.
I picked up the Stanley no 4, not the least expensive but not the most expensive either, and while it needs tuning (I watched both Rex Kruger and Paul Sellers video's on this) it is a quality tool that I plan to keep around. I have one, and it can do a pretty decent job, with a bit of setup. But in 30 minutes of work, this plane makes a great scrub plane. I agree its not a #3, but his question was how big it was, and I do think its closest to a #3 size wise. Got a and b as shown below.
The sole was so bad I never got it really flat. IMHO, the naysayers on this thread need to rethink. Quite a good quote in my view. You can post now and register later. What would you think of merging Knots with the website for the American Philosophical Association?
Money into it: $8.00 plane, $30 blade 1-1/2 hours fixturing and surface grinding time for one of my machinists @$60/hr or $90, and about 3 hours of my time (no cost). then. He got it to work, but in the end he scrapped the adjusters and went old-school, tapping the iron with a mallet like you would in a wooden-bodied plane. 
Old news.
Im not particularly fond of the spokeshave style blade adjustments either and I was tempted to remove them, but there doesnt seem to be too much room between the tote and blade to get even a small plane hammer in there and I have more experience with spokeshaves than I do wooden planes. The back-bevels definitely took longer - but then again I don't usually put 13 and 15-degree back bevels on my Stanley blades. Start your 14-day FREE trial - and get building! I mean logging. Makes some of the LV and LN look cheap, eh? 2. blade was junk out of the box: I didn't have time to make a new blade (yes I can do that and more), but another guy on the other forum had made a few blades and I bought one from him (A2, which I do not like). UNLIMITED Membership is like taking a master class in woodworking for less than $10 a month. Now the handle is on another plane and will never be used again. Out of the box the mouth sat in a deep hollow, now the sole is within a few tenths.
Commenting has been disabled. You can obviously buy better irons but it'll cost you $30 - $50.
How thick is the blade? I have one and use it a lot for misc stuff.
All you need to do is put a nice radius on the cutting edge. I'd be interested in the URL where this plane was discussed last year. Finally, the Maple surface itself - an area with surface planar tearout - MaplePlanerTearout. Not to be too hard on you, it looks like you got it to work pretty well from see the photos. Like matter and antimatter, math and economics, decent wages and work performed. Im going to try it next time where I might have used a scraper around a knot reversing grain whatever. Some just have got to pee on the electric fence for them selves.
February 3, 2016 in Hand Tools.
25, or even a No. for the same money you can get an old Stanley at a garage sale and with the same amount of work or less have a better feeling plane that will require less maintenance and last so much longer. The two groups have a lot in common. We can watch and see how low a price point can go. That is usually more efficient with a jack or fore plane.. For reference my only other plane at the time were a stanley no. UNLIMITED membership - Get access to it all.
Enter now for your chance to win more than $2,000 worth of woodworking equipment from Woodpeckers. CherryKnorPitchPocket is a kiln dried cherry table offcut that has been in the offcut bin a few months. Hopefully there is something like that in your area that you can get out and enjoy. Try a screwball path once in a while..:>), I just despise HF. Roller arrow in up position. Grain popping nicely, no tearout, and burnished mirror smooth. Even a blind pig finds an acorn every now and then, especially if he is the first one under the tree..
Cheaper than the $10 plane at HF!!!!!
The center of the 'old tool universe' is east of the Mississippi. Press J to jump to the feed. P.S Roc - you will be pleased to know that the HF #4 & small stamped plane set at $14.99 is a complete POS. MapleTopEdge1, 2, and 3 show the edge afterward. Any hour I can get out of the house and wife and to the shop is pure pleasure. Press question mark to learn the rest of the keyboard shortcuts. (MapleTearoutRemoved).
Yes - I won't be using it every day. I can see it now -- Threads entitled "woodworking and existentialism" - St Thomas Acquinas and dovetailing - How do I know my tenon has a better fit, or can it ever be known? I would say to try ebay, but prices there aren't great anymore. http://en.wikiquote.org/wiki/Norbert_Wiener. Plus no third world slave labor! They are not really for removing mill marks. I usually traverse with the scrub and then go with the grain with a #6 set as a fore.. Yes, I know you have it. I bought mine for about $7 or $8 (IIRC). So I enjoy a tool with a story. Ill see if it can help my grandfathers Stanley No.3. No adjustment there.
They only have about a quarter turn of backlash, less than the inexpensive spokeshaves I have encountered. 33 on sale, so maybe sometime, somewhere, someone might get a bargain.
No, I don't want to see it. Then let us know..:>). 33 is not the equivalent of a No. 32, a No. Very down on the ground and realistic from my personal observation.
Thanks for sharing. I don't use it and will probably give it away or sell it one of these days. Thanks Marty..Most guys here no allot about planes but I dont and liked the information .For $10 I may get one and If my tuneup goes bad than Im not out much.. Looks like a PITA to use with that "simplified" frog or lack thereof. LV, >Try a screwball path once in a while..:>) <. I've been considering making a little wooden smoother just for fun. I've had good luck with power tools on CL but I'm a mechanic type anddon't mind a fixer upper. Went back to the last bevel setting for a few strokes to remove the burr.
Using scary sharp sandpaper method, I reground the primary to 25 degrees.
It seems to take me about the same amount of time to sharpen as a Stanley blade.